After our (almost) week with a
car, bopping around in rural and small-town Andalucía, we had four days remaining
in Málaga before heading home. They were a good few days.
On the Thursday, we did – well,
we did nothing. Except the usual walk down to the sea and sitting in the sun,
reading. That evening, we tried to get a reservation for dinner at one of the
better restaurants in town, La Luz de Candela, but they were full up. I made a
reservation for the next night instead. This was to be our going-away treat. La
Luz is, according to TripAdvisor, the number-one ranked restaurant in Málaga.
On Friday, we got a little more
ambitious. In the late morning, we walked about an hour west along the beach to
La Térmica, a city-run cultural centre housed in a former hospital and
orphanage. It has exhibition spaces – the attraction for us – and offers regular
workshops, lectures, concerts and films, as well as providing studio space for
artists.
It still has the feel of an
early-20th century institutional building – albeit a Spanish one with lovely
tile work and courtyards – which somewhat clashes with the creative intent of
the place. The staff also gave the impression they were mostly time-serving
municipal employees, not terribly interested in what the place is about. On
this April morning, it wasn’t exactly a hive of activity either.
There were two art exhibits on,
both photography, both portraiture. The first was by a long-established fashion
photographer, Michel Comte, mostly black and white. Some of the pictures are
fabulous, some quite iconic – like the one of a screaming, 50-something Tina
Turner shimmying in her fringed mini-dress. Comte’s heyday was the 1980s and
1990s which is when most of the pictures here were taken.
I’m guessing this exhibit was
booked to coincide with the film festival earlier in the month – most of the
pictures were of actors and other entertainment people. Otherwise, I can’t
quite see the point of it. This is old and not terribly distinguished work. It’s
a type of photography not usually accorded the prestige of display in an art
gallery – although that may not be as much the case here in Europe. It
certainly wasn’t the sort of thing you’d expect at a supposedly cutting-edge
cultural space.
The second exhibit was a little more cutting-edge, in a
way. It was mostly candid portraits taken by the Spanish film director Isabel
Coixet (Things I Never Told You, My Life Without Me, etc.) of actors and
associates who worked on her films. They look to have been taken with a phone
or very simple camera and then heavily worked over in Photoshop to make them
look “arty.” Each one is only a few inches square in a big frame, accompanied
by a little quote from the subject, or from Coixet about the subject. Some of
them to me looked like photocopies of photographs, they were so
over-Photoshopped.
Sorry, Térmica – two duds. But
it was good to get a long walk in along the beach. We shopped at a Mercadona on
the way home and then mostly whiled away the afternoon with reading, photography,
blogging. We were tired after almost three hours of walking in the morning.
Our reservation at La Luz was
for 8 p.m. It’s only about a seven-minute walk away from the apartment. We had
been hearing drumming and mournful brass band music in the late afternoon. I
assumed it was rehearsals for the Semana Santa processions, which we thought started
Palm Sunday. But when we walked over to the restaurant, we ran into a parade
swaying up the street, not on our street, but the one just to the east of us.
I’m not sure if I’ve said much
about Semana Santa – Holy Week – in this blog. It’s an important festival time
in most of southern Europe, but in Andalucía, it’s huge. The festivities here are
fueled by competition among the confraternities or brotherhoods (hermandades or cofradias in Spanish), lay organizations set up to support and
promote charitable and pious works. There are many in major cities like Málaga
and Sevilla, the oldest established as early as the 16th century. Some churches
have more than one associated with them. Most brotherhoods have
thrones on which they mount lavishly decorated effigies of Christ or Mary.
During Holy Week, they carry the thrones through the streets to commemorate the
Passion, usually accompanied by penitents in the distinctive pointy-topped
masked hoods and robes that make them look like KKK clansmen.
Some of the thrones are the
size of small tractor trailers and are carried by hundreds of confraternity
members who walk in unison, packed tightly together supporting the throne on
their shoulders. They walk for a few minutes, usually in a kind of swaying
rhythm to create the illusion of life-like movement in the figure on the
throne, then stop and set the throne on the ground while they rest. The
marching is accompanied by bands, usually brass. Many play simple, monotonous,
mournful music, some are much more accomplished and play more complex, occasionally
quite nice music. And there are almost always rattatatting and thumping drummers,
pounding out the rhythm for the carriers.
In Seville, when we were there
a few years ago, we were told that the Semana Santa processions are very solemn
affairs in that city, often candle lit, with onlookers hushed in silence. Here,
it seemed more a festive atmosphere. Neighbourhood folk were out talking and
laughing, following along with the parade – sometimes chatting with one of the throne
carriers, or grabbing a selfie with a pointy-hooded penitent. Great fun.
La Luz is an interesting
restaurant. It’s French, or at least, it’s run by a couple of French guys. The
food is a hybrid of French and Spanish – served tapas style, to be shared at
the table. And it’s a slow-food restaurant. Everything is sourced locally and made
fresh when you order it. The décor is urban chic, unlike the typical Spanish
restaurants we go to for our menu del dia
lunches with their heavy wood furniture and gloomy interiors. The service was also
more relaxed and friendly. Our server, the same guy I’d emailed with about the
reservation, Matthieu, introduced himself and shook my hand when we came in, then chatted with us in
English and French all evening.
Most importantly, the food was
fabulous. For starters, we ordered two vegetable dishes – a white asparagus plate
and a spinach and goat cheese salad – and an order of La Luz-style patatas
bravas for me. All excellent. For “mains,” we had two meat dishes (natch): melt-in-the-mouth
pig cheeks in a rich gravy and rump steak cooked rare. Total bill, with a
bottle of quite nice Spanish wine: less than $90 CDN.
Not long after we sat down, the
Semana Santa procession caught up with us. We could hear it coming. Then band
members and other marchers started coming into the restaurant, asking to use
the toilets – which the restaurateurs graciously allowed them to do.
Eventually, the procession came right by the restaurant. Half the guests and
staff went out and stood on the front steps to watch. It’s not a very wide
street, and the throne, a Jesus, stopped right in front of us, filling the
street.
I had assumed the procession
was on its way back to the confraternity’s chapel when we saw it at the
restaurant. There is a chapel just up the street. They typically go in a
circuit, out and then back to their lair. But it evidently wasn’t headed back
at that point. When we came away from the restaurant later, we found the
procession lurching down our street. It was on its way back then apparently. I
went upstairs for my camera and flash and spent 45 minutes photographing the
tired marchers as they went past our building, and then followed them up around
the corner, almost to our Mercadona.
On Saturday, we hung around the
apartment in the morning, did some laundry and packing. In the afternoon, we
went and sat in the Plaza Merced in one of the sunny cafes, the Cafe Picasso, and sipped a glass
of wine. The square, just outside the historic centre, is about a ten-minute
walk from the apartment. There was a football game on the big-screen TV, which
some of the patrons were getting excited about from time to time. It was good
people watching.
There was a threesome of young
men at a table near us in the next café who amused me. They were having a
spirited conversation that I could partly follow, even with my limited Spanish.
It involved two of them ganging up on the third, egging him on in a joking way
to do something he didn’t want to do or didn’t think he could do. No idea what.
“You can do it.” “No!” “Sure you can.” “I don’t want to.” Lots of laughing. I
thought the behaviour was very recognizable. I could imagine three young Canadian
dudes having a similar conversation, railing on each other in the same way.
But when they parted in front
of the café later, they kissed goodbye. It was just the three cheek pecks. Still,
it brought home that, yeah, there are
still cultural differences between here and home – despite the disappointing Americanization
of much of Europe in recent decades. This was an example. I have also been noticing
that in Spain boys are allowed to touch each other in ways that I don’t think
they are in Canada anymore. When I was growing up, it was perfectly alright for
boy pals to walk around with their arms around each others shoulders. I could
be wrong, but I can’t imagine Canadian boys today doing that. We saw it often
in Spain when we encountered school groups in the street or at tourist sites.
From the Plaza Merced, we
walked about ten minutes north to the Basilica of Santa María de la Victoria,
the place with the fabulous rococco sanctuary that I wrote about earlier. According
to the Semana Santa schedule we had, they were going to parade their Virgin
today – a kind of opening act for Holy Week. The schedule was a little glossy
booklet, sponsored by the gas station chain where we’d filled the rental car before
returning it. The cashier handed it to me with my receipt. Can you imagine
PetroCanada sponsoring a program for a religious festival?
When we got to the Basilica,
there wasn’t much sign of anything going on at first, but then we noticed a
small crowd clustered around a side door. There were a couple of balloon
sellers out in the square in front too. This, we had begun to learn, was a good
sign that festivities were in the offing.
We hung around with the crowd
for 20 minutes or so, and then the procession came out. It had a completely
different look and feel to the one the night before. There were no penitents in
masked pointy hoods, and only a few servers carrying censers in robes - or they
might have been priests. Everybody else, including the guys carrying the relatively
small throne was dressed in sobre church clothes. Strange that from a church
with such lavish decorations should come this uncharacteristically conservative
procession. Even the music was modest – a small band of women on wood-wind
instruments playing gentle, barely audible music. No drummers.
The marchers seemed solemn
enough, the small crowd slightly less so. There was an air of sobre religiosity
about this one that appears not to be the norm in Málaga.
On the way up from Plaza
Merced, I had noticed some interesting-looking wall art down a side street.
After we left the procession, we walked back there and discovered an
interesting, funky neighbourhood, with a treasure trove of street art. I spent
a half hour photographing it, then we went home via Plaza Merced – which was
still buzzing.
On the street just east of
ours, where we’d first seen the procession the night before, one of the
confraternities, a different one, was getting its thrones ready to parade. The
great doors of its casa hemandad were
open and we could see the thrones inside – a Jesus and a Mary. A small crowd
was milling out front. It was the Cofradia Pollinica, according to the sign
over the doors, a fairly new one, established in 1911. Our schedule told us the
brotherhood would be starting its procession from here the next morning, Palm
Sunday, at 9:45, and it would be on our street about 10:30. So we knew what we’d
be doing the next morning.
Palm Sunday was our last day in
Málaga. We had nothing much planned, except lunch out and procession watching.
The parades started in earnest today, with nine scheduled, the first, ours, setting
out at 9:45, the last ending at one o’clock in the morning.
The Pollinica procession started
more or less on time. Most of the morning was spent marching from the casa hermandad and then up Ollerías, our
street. Karen and I mingled with the crowds in the street at first, then went
up on our roof, where we’d been hanging our clothes to dry all winter, and
watched from there.
When the first float, a
beautifully decorated Jesus under a palm tree, had passed, I went down and
walked around the corner to see the next float, the Virgin, start down Ollerías.
Then went back on the roof again. It was equally impressive. This must be a
very rich hermanadad. The thrones would have cost a fortune to build and
decorate. The base of the Jesus float was all intricately carved wood. The
Virgin float had a lot of silver – probably not solid, but still very
expensive. I’m guessing easily over a €1 million for the two.
The processions go on for a
long time. The Pollinica parade was still going – somewhere, far out of sight
of where we were – when we set out about 1:30 to go for lunch. We had chosen Casa
Lola, a tapas place in the heart of the historic centre. It had a very high
rating from TripAdvisor.
The streets in the centre were
crowded with revellers, although there was no sign of processions at this
point. Our restaurant was in a narrow street, and already crowded with
lunchers, mostly Spanish families. We were lucky enough to get a table in the
street out front. The people watching was superb, the street crowded with
passersby and folks waiting for seats, the tables crowded, everybody in a jolly
mood.
The food was also pretty good. We
ordered eight different things, including pinchos (meat skewers) and little
bocadillas (like sliders). Most of it was pretty good, some of it very good,
and all well prepared. I didn’t partake of the Russian salad – a staple of
tapas menus here – and Karen ate very little of it in the end. It was the one
thing she didn’t like. It was still only a little over €30 with three glasses
of wine and a large beer. (Hey, we were celebrating our last day!)
After lunch, we wandered around
in the centre and ended up down by the Roman theatre. Most of our time here, I
had been looking covetously at some drawings by an artist who sometimes showed
his stuff on the sidewalk near the theatre. I’d once asked how much they were
and was surprised that he only charged €25 each. Today, I decided it was now or
never if I was going to buy one.
I figured he would probably
bargain. His friend sitting beside him, showing much less interesting work, interpreted.
Neither of them had much English. I offered €40 for two, and my guy agreed.
That’s about $65 CDN for two original drawings measuring 10x14 inches each. They
are decidedly odd in subject matter – kind of fantastical – but I think quite
accomplished and original. I doubt they’re going to appreciate in value. The
guy – his name is Juan Pablo Gongora Lanzigri – looked to be in his mid- to
late thirties, and not very well off, possibly with some, um, issues. As far as
I can make out, he has zero profile on the Internet. Definitely dances to the
beat of a different drum. So, now what do I do with them?
We had planned to just wander about
and see what processions we could find to watch, but carrying the drawings was
a little awkward so we walked back to the apartment and dropped them.
We went out again late in the
afternoon, but it was crazy in the centre. We came to Plaza de la Constitución
at one point, where they had erected huge bleachers earlier in the week. Two
different processions were criss-crossing apparently, the back of one of which
we could see from a distance. But it was a madhouse. We couldn’t get near the
square. We decided we really didn’t want any more of crowds. We’d had a good
look at a Semana Santa procession with the Pollinica parade in the morning,
that was enough. So we headed home.
As we were walking up our
street, I looked down the narrow lane that leads to the San Felipe Neri church
a block over. I could see some figures in all-white penitent gowns and hoods.
They looked picturesque against the church wall, so we walked up to have a look,
and take some pictures. They were just kids. Some were standing on a porch
overlooking the street. Some were milling with onlookers in the street.
I’m not sure who they could be.
They might have been participants in the Pollinca procession still hanging
around, but it had ended a couple of hours before, and these kids looked too
fresh and clean to have paraded in the streets for five hours. And why would
they still be wearing their full costumes? Besides, there was a sense of
anticipation. I assumed at the time they were waiting to start a procession,
but there were none scheduled to start that late, according to our little
booklet. Curious. So were there even more than the nine processions our
schedule showed? Or was this the beginning of some other activity that involved
dressing up like a KKK member.
The big conclusion to be drawn
from the day’s acitivies? The Spanish are plum loco!
We finished our packing after
dinner and TV, but the housing development behind us was having another Saturday
night street party with incredibly loud music. There wasn’t a lot of point
going to bed. About 11, I emailed Christina, our landlady, to let her know
about the noise – I assumed she already knew, that she could hear it from her
apartment next door, but maybe not. I didn’t hear back that night, but the music
shut down shortly after 11:30.
The next morning, I had an
email from Christina saying she had called the police after seeing my email.
They told her they’d had other complaints and were on their way. So maybe I
should have complained the week before when they had music blaring at nightclub
volumes until after one in the morning.
We were out of the apartment
before 8:30, walked up the street and got a cab at the taxi rank. We were at
the airport 25 minutes later. Our BA flight was delayed almost an hour but we
made up some of the time.
We had arranged with Caitlin
and Bob to meet them at a pub near the airport that afternoon. They drove down
from Essex where Caitlin was staying with Bob for the weekend. They brought Bob’s
little boys to introduce them to us and have lunch. The boys were on school
break, and Bob was down for the week looking after them. Unfortunately, they
arrived at the pub early, and we were late because of the flight delay and
taking time to try and solve communications problems at the hotel – Wi-Fi was
down and cellular reception was non-existent inside. This was a Courtyard by
Marriott, supposedly a business hotel, and there was no cellular reception in
the hotel! In any case, we finally made it to the pub almost an hour late and
spent a very pleasant hour and a half or so with Caitlin’s little adopted
family.
The kids are spirited but were generally
pretty well behaved, especially given they’d been cooling their heels in this
pub for well over an hour before we got there. They’re both kind of cheeky, but
very likeable. Ed, the younger, at four, is the more social and laid back.
Will, seven, is a bit shy and higher strung. I was amused by Ed at one point
addressing Bob as “Daddy m’laddy.” Don’t know where he got that from, possibly
a grandparent? As I say, cheeky.
Bob eventually set off on his
own with the boys to drive them back to their flat in Maldon. Caitlin stayed
with us because she was flying back to Glasgow that night for work the next day.
So we had some more time with her in the pub and then back at the hotel. She
set out from the hotel by the shuttled bus a little after seven.
Our flight the next day left
more or less on time, but arrived very late. The flight itself was good – the cabin
crew were terrific – but, as on the flight over, the food was awful, sandwiches
on soggy bread. After we’d begun our descent into Toronto, the captain came on
to say that Pearson had been closed that afternoon because of thunderstorms,
and we’d have to circle for at least a half hour to wait for the backlog to
clear. Then a half hour later, he came on again to say we were now being
diverted to Hamilton to refuel.
We were almost two hours late
into Toronto and missed our 5 p.m. Robert Q bus. We got on the next one available
at 7:30 p.m. But our odyssey was not over. The driver, it turned out, was new
to the Toronto-London run. It took him three tries to find the right roadway to
get down to the Arrivals level at Terminal 1 where there were other passengers
waiting. The dispatcher at Terminal 1 kept calling him on his cell, which he
had on speaker phone, saying, “Where are
you? I can’t see you.” She was evidently outside, watching for him, and getting very annoyed. Karen, who
was sitting next to him in the anti-car-sickness seat, said he was definitely getting
flustered. She in the end pointed him down the right road.
It still wasn’t over. The 401
was closed because of an accident. We would have to go the long way around by
the 403, through – yes – Hamilton! Nice city, but twice, unscheduled, in one
day? We arrived after 10 in London, but Ralph and Pat were there to pick us up.
Pat had even bought us a bag of groceries with breakfast things. She’s so
sweet.